Cusco: 23rd - 27th April 2026
23rd April – Thursday
I was so sad to be leaving Quito this morning, it kind of came across me and was so unexpected. I have really enjoyed Quito and felt very comfortable there. However, I was very disappointed with my last breakfast service, normally the staff are very attentive but today they were rushed off their feet with at least 20 other guests that turned up late yesterday evening, and even though I told them I was downstairs no-one came and took my order and I had to go up to the kitchen and explain that I need to leave at 8:30. Then to top it off I did not get my bowl of fruit. While I was waiting for my Uber, Angela (the manager) was very apologetic and said I could take some fruit with me but I turned the offer down and left a 10 star review but with a little comment about my last breakfast.
The flight to Lima was practically empty, I had two empty seats next to me, which was so unusual. Once in Lima, due to flying in from another country and my connection being domestic I had to go through passport control, collect my rucksack and check in again. Luckily I had a couple of hours between flights and the passport control area was deserted of tourist. The flight from Lima to Cusco was packed, but I had read that it is a very popular and cheap route for locals to take, especially as the bus takes almost 2 days. Flying up into the Andes was awesome, there was a lot of clouds so I didn’t really get to see much until we descended but it felt like a long slow decent and it was awesome. The mountain tops so many shades of green and crevice making them look like crumpled green velvet of various different shades. There were also a couple of small villages scattered in the mountains and one mountain top was so flat, like the
peak had been chopped off, and so vast that I thought it could house a rather large town. Flying into Cusco was freaky, one minute it looked like the aircraft wing was going to scrape along the mountain side and then the next the floor below us was lit up with the city lights as we descended further and finally landed. It is so mad that there are these vast cities so high up in the Andes, they are stunningly beautiful, with all their lights lighting up the mountain sides.
The dive from the airport to my hotel was quite hair-raising. I had been warned that they are mad drivers and that is no exaggeration. However, it was awesome to have a driver waiting for me and not having to faff around trying to get an Uber. Unfortunately he did not have any English but with my Spanglish I managed to get him to stop at an ATM before dropping me off at the hostel. It was also dark by the time we landed so I didn’t really see much of Cusco and tomorrow I am off on a trip to rainbow Mountain, so my exploration of the city will have to wait until Saturday. What I did see of it I liked very much, lots of little mini mart type shops, an indoor marcado, where the ATM was, and lots of children playing football in different square type areas. It was all very busy and a feast for the eyes.
My hostel is freezing, Cusco is freezing. The hostel has an open courtyard and winding stairs with a u shaped balconies on each floor which the rooms are accessed from. I asked the receptionist / manager guy if it is always this cold and he said the days are sunny but the nights are cold – OMG. I don’t have enough cold weather clothes for this – I need at least another pair of leggings and possibly another jumper. And I have to be ready for the tour pickup by 4:30 am tomorrow morning – FFS – it is going t be painfully cold at that time of the morning. I just hope Rainbow Mountain is as spectacular as they say it is.
24th April – Friday
Wow, today was a mixture of long, boring and awesome. The long boring bit was the drive to and from Rainbow Mountain – 4 hours each way. We left at 4:30 this morning and I was the penultimate pick up and there was only one seat left in the back and it was next to a rather large young lad who took up more than just his own seat. I was so uncomfortable with hm squashing me in and literally falling on top of me as we went around corners. My only relief was that he slept most of the time and then leaned towards his sister and mum rather than me. We did a stop for breakfast on the way there and lunch on the way back, which was included in the trip. Both times the food was buffet style and plentiful. I was not disappointed.
The Rainbow Mountain base camp is 4600 meters above sea, here we were given a walking stick each to aide with the hour long trek to the top, had a group photo taken and then set off. Well, I didn’t get very far at all before my breathing became laboured and the tour leader asked if I, and another older lady, wanted to get motos up – I did not hesitate in saying yes. So the older lady, myself and her son (he was young and very handsome and looked after his mum and me) got motorbikes to the top. They were quite expensive but a relief. The journey up was so bumpy and my driver kept swerving the ditches and holes, I felt so sorry for him as he had a running commentary of ‘OMG’ and ‘oh no’ amongst other things all the way up. I apologised when I got off the bike at the top. However, the top was not quite the top, there was still a very small hike to the very top, so off we set, it was not too bad, especially as we could see how far we had to go, it was more steep than long, and we had a little stop half way and I had my photo taken with some rather chilled looking lamas, I didn’t have any change so gave the lama guy s/20, which is about £4, for taking the photos, I am sure I made his day. We didn’t actually have to go to the top as the view of Rainbow Mountain was stunning from where we were. In fact the views all the way up on the motor were absolutely stunning, not just of the different colours of the minerals in the surrounding mountains but also of the snow capped peaks. And we really were in the peaks, the main, top viewing platform for Rainbow Mountain is 5036 meters above sea level and I think the highest point in the area is just over 6000 meters. I can really understand what draws some people to want to climb mountains like these, but not me, first I am not keen on the cold that comes with these altitudes and second I am not sporty and certainly not an adrenalin junky and I think you need to be both to do that type of thing. Although I do posses a certain amount of jealously as I know the experience must be second to non.
By the time we did the short hike to the very top the clouds had swept in. While waiting in the queue to take photos with the high sign I got chatting with an American couple and I jokingly said that we should blow the clouds out of the way. So all 5 of us started blowing and do you know what, by the time we got to front of the queue we had blown the clouds far enough away that we got some awesome photos. Next was the decent. The mother and son had booked the motos back down but I hadn’t as I knew the walk down would not be as challenging as going up, so I set off back down on my own. Well I was right, it was easier all except for one thing; I went the wrong way down! I did not know there were three routes up and down until I got to a sign for the Rad Mountain passage, then I got thinking that this did not feel right so asked another
tour leader who told me about the three routes. OMG, I was on the wrong route and had to hike all the way back up to the first viewing point – that was hard work. I had to stop several times, but at least I was not the only one, nearly all of the other hikers had to keep stopping to catch their breath, so at least I knew it was not just me who struggled with the hike at this altitude. When I got to the viewing point I didn’t know what to do, should I looked around to see if I could find my tour leader or should I try one of the other two paths down, I just stood there like a lost lama for a good 5 minutes before I got a tap on my shoulder. It was my tour leader, wow, how happy was I to see him. He told me which path to head down and off I went, content. I did have to stop a couple of times as even though I was going downhill the air is was still so thin and my breathing laboured. I later researched and giving up smoking can affect your breathing for a good few months, making you take shorter and shallower breaths, which helps explain why I am having more problems with my breathing than I had before I stopped smoking.
Once back in Cusco I was delighted to come across an arts festival, which is on this weekend. There was a dance competition / carnival taking place around Plaza Mayor de Cusco, which was not far from where we got dropped of. It was beautiful to see several different Peruvian dances and hear Peruvian music from the different regions of Cusco and the clothes they wear are just so colourful and warm looking. They are all made from lamas wool, which looks so warm and cosy. Unfortunately by now I had developed a serious headache, I think it is altitude sickness, and I felt really ill. I tried to buy some water but I didn’t have enough change and although the lady offered me a discount I still didn’t have enough change for it. I had to sit on some steps for a good 15 minutes before I could continue the walk back to the hostel. Luckily, not far from where I had been sitting, I came across a supermarket and was able to buy water and few other things that I needed. I had opened and was drinking water before the lady at the till had counted out my change! It made a small difference and I made it back to my hostel without having to stop again. However, my head now feels explosive, every time I move I feel sick and dizzy, I have never experienced this feeling before and never want to again. It is only 7:30 but I am going to finish this bottle of water and sleep in the hope that tomorrow I feel normal again.
25th April – Saturday
Today has been pleasant enough. I woke at least 5 times last night, but then I did go to sleep at 7:30, so I am surprised I manages to stay semi asleep until 6:30. After rolling around in bed for ten minutes I went downstairs and got coffee – omg, it was like liquid tar, it was so strong and so thick I had to water it down, and then due to the cold in my room, it went cold really quickly. Good job I like cold coffee. After breakfast, which was very lame, a bread roll with cheese and ham, I also had some yogurt with some pop corn types stuff in it – I wont be having that again – I sat under my blankets and did something I have not done for months: my website. I am so behind that I am only now starting on February, so that is Brazil!
This afternoon I went for a walk to an out of town hiking store. From all the reviews it was worth the 30 minute walk as it was supposed to be cheaper – I will never know as I am not going to compare. The shop was shut when I arrived but had a huge sign outside saying to contact the number, I did. The lady arrived within ten minutes. I tried on several pairs of hiking trousers with zips in the legs so you can convert them into shorts, I had settled for the cheaper pair (s/ 95) until I found out the price of the walking sticks (s/ 45), I then opted for the first pair that I tried on, and the most expensive at s/145. They fit and felt so much better, are water resistant and also a far better length for me. I wore them out this evening and am very happy with them. They will be put to the test tomorrow on my Humanity Lake trip, which involves a 2k hike, and so will my new walking poles.
Before my evening walk I almost booked my flight back to the UK, but I did so much faffing around that before my very eyes the price went up and the deal that I had been looking at disappeared. I think it was because I had a quick look at business class deals, which are almost treble the cost of economy. So I still haven’t bought my ticket – I got as far as the seat selection for a price that was OK and was just about to select my seats when I noticed the flight was empty. So I am going to give it a couple more weeks and see if my deals come back again. It is a risk as the price may go up but it is a risk I am willing to take.
This evening I went for a walk to the main plaza, it is so beautiful as the sun is setting, the Templo de la Compania de Jesus and the Catedral del Cuszo are both so ornate and adjacent to each other. In fact I think they must be the most ornate churches / temples that I have seen on this trip. I got a couple of fantastic photos of them as the sun was setting between them. I am so
tempted to post them on the family group but don’t want to ruin the view for mum and dad. I checked our itinerary this afternoon and we have a couple of days here to explore the plaza and museums, so I don’t want to do too much here on my own, I will wait until they we are all together. I had a walk through this plaza to Plaza Regocijo, which is where we got dropped off yesterday. There was a fashion show going on so I sat and watched and took some photos. I was not keen on any of dresses but did take a fancy to the turquoise gloves that one of the guys had on. I got a little cold from sitting down and so headed back to my hostel. I have an early start tomorrow, 4:30, and another long day. I also need to work out the logistics for Monday and the start of my Peru Hop trip to Lima.
26th April – Sunday
I don’t think I could be more exhausted if I try. This morning pick up was supposed to be at 4am but it didn’t arrive until 4:30 – I could have slept for another half hour. Much to my delight, unlike the Rainbow Mountain trip, I got one of the single seats, and had a good sleep until we stopped for breakfast, which was at a different place, we were actually travelling in the opposite direction but with the same choice. 3 young girls from Brazil sat with ,e and they were not nice, in fact I got the impression they were pissed off that I got the last bread roll- lol – not that they had to wait long for fresh ones to be brought out. Once on the bus I dozed for a while and so missed some of the scenery, however I did wake up in time to see a lot of assent and had to stop myself from looking down into the sheer drop that was beside me most of the time. I found myself wishing that the driver would sow down, but tried to reassure me that he has done this jouney enough times that he could do it with his eyes closed. It was quite spectacular driving up even higher into the Peruvian Andes, but very scary.
We got off as near to the base as we could get. The path we followed started off very slim and slippery, again with a sheer drop to our right. I did not look down and was thankful for my new walking sticks. Originally when I got on the bus I felt very silly for having them but when we stopped our tour guide, Michael, handed one out to everyone. I did not feel silly then or for the rest of the hike – they were very much needed. After the slippery slope part of the hike, the walk wasn’t too bad, however I did have to stop several times as my breathing is still not correct – I did research and is due to giving up smoking and all of my little lung capillaries repairing themselves. It should get better in the next month or so. Anyway, I thought the hike was easy going until we turned a corner and found ourselves at the base camp. OMG, the hike suddenly got 100% steeper and Michael said that we had to hike over the large mountain in front of us, and then round a bit to under the Humantay glacier. FFS – I was determined to hike but only managed about ¼ of it then relented and paid for a horse to take me to the top. I am so glad I did, I would have probably done it on foot but not within the time frame we had been given, and I didn’t want to risk going all that way and not seeing the lake. One of the three girls from breakfast turned back at base camp, but then she was rather overweight and had been struggling with the gentler part of the hike, another gave up when I got on the horse. I felt quite sorry for them, paying their money and going all that way not to actually see the lake. However, I actually felt more sorry for the horses – what a sad miserable, hard life they have. Not only had several passed us that were being used to carry the backpacks and resources for those doing the 5 day hike to Machu Picchu, but then they had us overweight and unfit tourists to contend with. And the path was steep and slippery and at times the drop was steep. Many a time I had to tell myself not to look down, but at the same time I did try to take a couple of photos as the view was amazing. My horse did not want to play fair and kept trying to push past the others to get to the front, it was all very dangerous as a fall / drop would have be fatal. Getting on the horse and off wasn’t too bad, the handlers knew exactly how to handle me! And when I finally got off the handler took time to make sure I was ok, obviously he could see that I had been slightly on the nervous side.
I still had a little walk to get to the lake and by now all the others from my tour had finished the hike so it was quite nice that we were all together for the final stint, which was just over a small mound – and wow. What a stunning sight, the lake was a magical turquoise blue but what really stunned me was the reflection
of Humantay mountain and the glacier in the water. It was fabulous – definitely a picture worth framing and hanging in the hall way (if I had one – lol). So I sat for a while and giggled to myself while watching all the youngsters do their Instagram poses in front of the lake – so vein. I decided to make my way back down 15 minutes before everyone else as I was afraid of being slow – I had nothing to worry about – we were all slow. The walk down was quite treacherous and long, It made me glad that I got the horse up. I almost slipped on loose rocks at least 4 times and my toes were killing me, I should have cut my toenails the night before! I did have to stop several times, even once when I was on the flatter section, just to catch my breath. I am so glad I had my walking poles as they really helped propel me along. It was really scary having to do the slim slippery path with the sheer drop on my way, especially if I had fallen…. I just took my time and didn’t take a step until my footing felt secure. I also clung to the wall and did not look down. What a relief to get on the coach, that was after I spent ages looking for it, it wasn’t parked with all the others and I had to go a bit further on. It must have taken a good 10 minutes or more before everyone else arrived, and then back to the hotel we headed – totally exhausted and ready for a shower and a good nights sleep.
27th April – Monday
After the last couple of days, and knowing that I had an overnight bus ahead of me, today I walked into the historic centre and had a little mull around before deciding to head uphill to the Mirador de San Blas. OMG, how many stairs did I climb, thousands, that is all I can say. However the view was worth it, you could see all of Cusco, including the all the churches around the main plaza, the football stadium and a few other landmarks. I decided to have a coffee and work out my next move. I found a lovely little place with excellent views and ordered my drink only to realise I had left my purse in my other bag! I quickly cancelled my coffee and left, I was a little way up some more stairs when I had the bright idea of linking my card to Google wallet – yay – it worked and I returned and had my coffee and a wonderful chat with Yasmin on the phone. Congratulations Rachel for getting into Brighton University – I am so proud of her.
After the coffee I decided to be brave and head even further up and visit one of the archaeology sites that I found on maps. When the first set of stairs came to an end, in that I hit a road, I was catching my breath and looking at the map when I realised I had another even longer and steeper set to climb. A guy started to chat to me and I tried telling him that I was going to the archaeology site but he insisted that I was going to the San Cristobal monument and further insisted in giving me directions. One good piece of advice he gave was was to do 10 steps and rest all the way up. I actually did 13 but it did make a difference and by the time I was at the top I didn’t feel too out of breath. However I did chill at a bus stop for 5 minutes and chatted with this little old man who was holding a bunch of flowers and coughing his guts out, he told me he had cancer – poor thing. San Cristobal was nothing spectacular but the view was. I chilled for a while and researched the archaeology sites. Turns out I needed a tourist ticket to visit them which cannot be bought on the internet, only in town! Uhm, no way was I going down to go up again.
Once back in town I had a stroll around the streets of San Blas, it is all very arty farty, with some beautiful shops. I visited the stone with 12 sides, not that I could which stone it was but I am sure it was there in the wall I was looking at – lol. For dinner I went to a Thai Peruvian fusion restaurant, I had shrimp rolls for starters and then a shrimp pad Thai – it was delicious and washed down with two Pico Sours. By the time I left I was feeling quite tipsy. I made my way slowly to the hostel, collected my bags and jumped in a taxi to the Peru Hop bus terminal and you will have to read tomorrows insert to find out how that all went.
