Itacare: 17th - 19th February 2026
17th February – Tuesday
It is such a relief to be back to travelling on my own, which is sad as I had been so looking forward to travelling with Manu. As much as we are good friends we just did not get on, she was not happy in Brazil and I just could not understand why. Anyway, I hope she enjoys Peru and the rest of her travels.
I left at 10:30 this morning, I am glad I started to call an Uber early because 3 cancelled on me, this is becoming a norm in Brazil, the 4th turned up and I made it to Terminal Maritimo de Sao Joaquim in time for the 11am ferry to Bom Despacho. In true Brazilian fashion the boat was late leaving but we still arrived with enough time for me to have a beer and a little snack before getting on my pre-booked 1:20 pm bus to Itacare.
There is not much to say about the bus journey, it left on time, I slept for a lot of the 5 hours and we arrived on time. I was a little pissed off that I didn’t have a window seat as some of the villages and towns we passed through were very pretty. One, I think it was Itubera, had many building that looked like little castles, with the fortress tops, and Camamu, which is a little port town looked stunning. We stopped right by the water front and it would have been nice to have 5 minutes to get out and have a quick look around, but the driver was having none of it. The sunset was also amazing tonight, especially when we crossed De Contas River, the view was to die for, I reached for my phone as quickly as possible but was too late and I probably wouldn’t have got a good shot due to sitting in an aisle seat.
The walk from Itacare bus terminal to my hostel is only 10 minutes, that is if you walk in the right direction once you get to the main drag – lol. And guess what, stupid me turned off mobile data for G Maps and although I spent 20 minutes trying to turn it back on, I failed. Luckily the hostel owner had sent me several pictures of the doorway and shops next to it, it is two shops away fro the Chili Beans restaurant, which made it very easy for asking directions.
I thought I had booked a hostel on the road parallel to the main drag, but it turns out I am actually on the main drag and literally right outside the etrance to the hostel is a bar playing
loud thumping music and a couple of restaurants. However, my room is quite far back and although I can hear the bar it is actually no louder than the fridge which is humming away right next to my bed. Neither will disturb me as I am exhausted and they are not loud enough. I did go out not long after arriving, I went and had a beer and a burger, the meat patty was so small the first few mouthfuls were just bread and salad – yum yum. I also found a shop and bought water and some fruit for breakfast.
I am only here for three nights, which I am now very glad about, as from what I have seen so far this place is just a tourist trap. So I am going to research my next location now, before going to sleep, and will enjoy the beach and nightlife tomorrow.
18th February – Wednesday
What a lovely chilled day – just me, myself and I – so happy and content.
I didn’t sleep well, I woke with my right arm itching like hell and then the dull base from the clubs across the road got into my eardrums and wouldn’t leave. I must have been awake from about 1 – 4 am. When I did finally sleep it was interrupted with lots of mad dreams with so many people from the past. I slept restlessly until past 9am, which is so unlike me.
However, I have had such a lovely day. I went for a walk down to the sea front where they are packing up from their carnival event. It looks like it was small and friendly with a short parade strip but a large stage right on the sea front, small, compact but warm and friendly, probably quite the opposite to Salvador. There is no question about it this is a surfer town, lots of shops offering lessons and all of the paraphernalia that a surfer and his gal could want, and all at a juicy price.
The coast line is beautiful, very rocky and picturesque when the tide is out, the lighthouse is plain and simple but I expect it does a good job. I found a bar at the end of the coastline walk and sat there for quite a while. Stupidly I went to the loo and left my phone on the table. When I returned a little old man selling sun glasses had been keeping and eye on it for me, he bought a bag of crisps and shared them with me, we sat and exchanged a few words before I decided I needed food.
I found one of the plate weigh buffet shops that Manu likes, however this was a local one and the food was amazing and so much cheaper than usual. I had a big plate of salad, lasagna and prawns as well as a ginger and lemon drink all for 50 reais, so cheap and so delicious. I will be going back tomorrow.
I spent the afternoon trying to decide where to go next. Travelling down the coast is not going to be so easy and it will be time consuming. So I am not sure if I should return to Salvador and fly to Rio or do another beach town here first. The coach is the cheapest option but it takes 24 hours! And I was kind-of liking the
idea of being in Ushuaia for my birthday, but I suppose that is not so important, but it would be lush. So even as I write this I am still so undecided, and I have to make my decision and book everything in the morning.
This evening I took a stroll back to the bar I went to this afternoon. En route I had more food, another burger, but it was absolutely delicious compared to the one I had last night, a large meat patty, lots of pickles, cheese and onions – I didn’t feel guilty as I had lots of salad, vegetables and fruit today. However my beer intake is still rather overflowing, not only would I loose a lot of weight if just halved it, I would also have more money in my pocket to spend elsewhere – but hey, I am still struggling with not smoking and vaping – I keep getting very jealous of everyone else, but have resisted temptation – determination is the name of the game.
There is not even a hint of music in the background tonight and the bar across the road is actually shut – I look forward to a good nights sleep – pray for me as I need one. And then a positive decision on my next destination when I wake in the morning. Sweet dreams.
19th February – Thursday
Another fabulous day, although I’m not sure how I am physically and mentally managing as I had the worst insomnia ever last night. I did not sleep until 4 am and then was wide awake at 8:30 am. I spent a couple of hours researching and finally booked myself 4 nights in Porto Seguro, which is the birth place of Brazil. From there I will fly to Rio and then fly to Buenos Aires and then on to Ushuaia, hopefully in time for my birthday. That is the plan Stan, however I will not be too upset if I don’t make it to Ushuaia on time as long as I am there within a couple of days of my birthday I will be happy.
For brunch, as promised, I went to the buffet place I went to yesterday. It is so good and the food is so healthy, well, my plate was anyway, lots of salad and a small serving of lasagna. After that I walked the opposite way to yesterday along the coast to Praia da Concha, it took all of 15 minutes. The views of Itacare bay on the way up the hill were stunning, I think I must have been at Mirante do Xareu at this point. I could even see the bar that I went to yesterday. The water is so blue and beautiful with the boats, rocks and sand dunes – totally breathtaking. Anyway I found my way to Restuarante de Cabana and sat there for a good 3 hours drinking beer and people watching. It was such a lovely spot, Manu would have loved it and they had Caipirinhas on the menu! We had a little chat via WhatsApp, she is still in Salvador, her flight to Peru is at 5am tomorrow morning. I am surprised she stayed on an extra couple of days considering how much she dislike Brazil. I really do hope Peru meets her expectations.
I have finally resolved my mobile data problem. It is so weird out here, I haven’t had any problems except in Brazil. Here, when you buy data you are not buying data but rather extending the life of your card and as I do not have a Brazilian TAX number (CPF) I cannot access the app to turn my extended life into internet access. And there is no Claro store in Itacare to do it for me. So, I have had to download the Claro Flex E-Sim, which is £6 for 15 days with 20 GB of internet, which is actually a good deal, however I now have a standard SIM, which Flex has deactivated, with is not due to run out until June – lol, Lesson learnt. I just hope the remainder of the countries I am visiting are as easy as the previous ones I have visited and not complex like Brazil.
I really should nip out and hit one of the bars across the road from here, even just for one long drink and then try to get some sleep tonight. It is so jarring laying in bed wide awake when the rest of the world is snoring – pray for me please.
