Mosqueiro & one night in Belem:
24th - 27th January 2026
24th January – Saturday
I felt a lot better today, that was until I had my coffee and then I felt a little vertigo but it didn’t last too long or prevent me from getting ready to leave. Waleria told me that the drink she gave me was fresh mint and honey. She went and picked some of the mint and then proceeded to give me a really huge amount of honey with the comb, wow, so delicious and so generous of her.
It took 4 attempts before an Uber came, they kept accepting my request then cancelling because the fair was so low and they wanted more money, which I didn’t have. Waleria said I could get the bus for about a quater of the price but I really didn’t want to. Eventually I got an Uber at the agreed price and I got him to stop at an ATM so I had enough money. The journey actually took 2 hours, so not only did I buy him coffee, I also gave him a £5 tip.
Uhm, my first impression of my new hotel was really not good. It is so run down and grotty, the only positive is that is directly across the road from the coast. The manager guy is lovely enough but the first set of room he showed me all had something wrong with them, from leaking ceilings to doors that didn’t lock properly. I finally settled on one room that stank of the Amazon and then went off to find the local supermarket, which is only 8 minutes walk away and really well stocked. On the way back I bought some rotisserie chicken and rice for dinner. In my room I went to wash my hands, before going to eat, and the tap water came out a nasty dark brown colour, even worse than the water on the boats, there was no way I could wash my hands in it, they would have been dirtier than not washing them.
While I was eating I asked the manager if he had any nicer rooms and, much to my delight, he made a quick phone call and then helped me move to a far nicer room. It is fresh, with a modern
air-conditioner and more decent looking bed, the bathroom is bigger, there is no smell and the door locks properly – I am so much happier. It is also further in from the road, so much quieter. The balcony has hammock hooks, so I strung mine and chilled for the rest of the afternoon with my book and the local cat, which is now my best friend because, when I was eating, I gave it the breast bone laden with chicken. I don’t think it gets much affection as it was shy about being stroked and then didn’t purr when it finally let me stroke it. However, it did lay under my hammock the whole time I was there and even followed me into my room every time I went in.
While I was reading my neighbour, who drives an old VW Beetle, informed me of an old car show that was taking place at the old airport, starting at 6pm. I was hoping he was going to offer me a lift but he didn’t so I walked there, in the rain, it was only half an hour away and not at the old airport. I found it by following some very loud music. It wasn’t very big and mainly full of old beetles and a couple of old Chevrolet, there was also a DJ in the bandstand playing Queen, The Smiths and Abba tunes – I was the only person dancing at this point – lol. Slowly the event filled with local people, many of whom brought fold up chairs and picnic boxes. It was awesome, I had such a good time and especially liked the VW camper van that had been converted into a beer bar and was run by a guy with locks down to his knees. When a new DJ came on and started playing Brazilian tunes I decided it was time to go, not because of the music but because I needed the loo! However I asked around and was finally admitted into someone’s house to use the toilet. So I bought more beer and watched the live band that came onto the bandstand. Most of the tunes were Brazilian but then they played David Bowie’s Star Man, with the lyrics in Portuguese, I tried to sing along in English but it was so difficult. The couple of ladies I was sitting with thought I was very hysterical (I was actually quite pissed by then) and kept trying to chat to me even though I told them I didn’t understand, which I thought was hysterical. I left at about 9:30 and walked back. Overall it was a very entertaining evening, I enjoyed seeing the cars, dancing, singing and people watching, especially the 3 old ladies, with an old man, who were all wearing sparkly outfits and danced to every tune.
25th January – Sunday
I’m not sure where today went, it kinda sailed by without me doing much. This morning was quite funny, the manager kept saying salsa and doing something funny with his hands, it turns out he was trying to tell me that he saw me dancing last night – lol – he was at the car show, He saw me but I didn’t see him. For breakfast I made an egg, cheese and ham roll, not sure why is was not as nice as the ones Waleria used to make for me, but still, along with a banana it filled me up. Facebook kindly reminded me that it is the anniversary of my dads death today, it has made me feel very sad and I had a little cry. I hate being reminded of today – life can be so unjust at times. To occupy my thoughts I spent some time doing my website, I am 4 weeks behind, before going to the supermarket for some coffee, beers and fruit. I’m glad I went when I did, it was baking hot and so steamy but not long after I returned, and not long after I had set up my hammock and just getting into my book, we had a really heavy thunder storm. It was so heavy that a lot of the areas of the hotel now have huge puddles, which I suppose is not surprising as it is open plan and naked to the elements This evening I took a stroll along the front and had a burger for dinner. I thought I was getting fries with it but instead it had tiny potato bits on it that were almost like crisps. Anyway the burger was delicious, I just hope the very salty bacon doesn’t cause me to have vertigo tomorrow – we will
see. It was very quiet out there, I think the weekenders have returned home, plus there is a football match on, which everyone seems really consumed in, must be a Brazilian team playing. On the way back I had a white chocolate ice cream, it was bloody delicious and now I am going to curl up with my book.
26th January – Monday
I have had enough of here, it is boring and the two places of interest are not within walking distance, plus it is raining again. Manu is now heading to the boarder of French Guyana and will be in Macapa tomorrow morning. The lady from the apartment I booked on Marajo said the only way to get from Mosqueiro to Marajo is via Belem. So I am going to leave in the morning. I have booked a room in Belem, near the port for one night, I will get my Marajo boat ticket tomorrow as soon as I arrive.
The guys here are lovely, I have no complaints about them, but this place does leave a lot to be desired. It reminds me of a run down Butlins – lol. But this morning was disgusting and helped me make up my mind about leaving early. The path from my room to the main block had human diarrhoea on it, I wanted to throw up, due to the grass area being water logged I had no choice but to carefully traverse it, several times. Even the cleaner did not touch it. The person who eventually cleaned it was the manager guy, I therefore believe it was his. And the kitchen, which is rank, was even worse than rank today. They must have had a little party in there but left everything out, there were flies everywhere. I did not make breakfast, instead I have had fruit and biscuits. The cleaner in there now, hopefully I will be able to make my breakfast for lunch or dinner.
The only nice thing about this morning was that I took my coffee to the river front and there was a pregnant cat asleep a few inches from where I sat. When she woke she came and rubbed up against me. She was so affectionate and, after a few strokes, tried to sit on my lap. She then curled up on the floor, touching me and passers by kept asking if she was my cat. She looked very sad when I said goodbye to her, and for a moment I thought she was going to follow me back to my room. Bless her.
Later: I went for a walk along the beach and had a really good cry, I miss my dad so much, and Jay. I cried for them both. I then went and had a very large expensive beer at a beach bar. On my way back I bought a new extension cable. I thought it was my USB that was dud, but it turns out that the extension cable I bought in Mexico has had its day – fair enough. I also bought more beers and cigarettes. I am definitely drinking too much beer and have developed a little beer belly – Hopefully with Manu’s presence I will cut right down. I spent the afternoon in my hammock reading. I also used the dirty kitchen for one last time and made two egg, cheese and ham rolls for dinner.
For most of the afternoon I have a pain in the right side of my stomach. It is not always there but when I walk around it is very sharp and stabbing. It’s a little concerning, I hope it goes by the morning. Talking of which I am basically packed and ready to go, I hope to get the 8:30 am van to Belem, it stops rights outside this hotel which is a right touch. If I get to Belem early enough I
hope to take a trip to Ilha do Combu. My Belem hotel is about a 10 minute walk from the boat terminal, and it is a 15 minute ride away, so it should be doable. I want to visit the chocolate house and have lunch there. I’ll be a very happy puppy if my plan comes to fruition.
27th January – Tuesday
I’m very pissed – lol – but had an awesome day. I managed to get the 8:10 am van out of Mosquiero and with the help of the manager only paid the local price, 20 rieas. Such a saving compare to my Uber trip there. I felt kinda sad leaving them as the guys are so bloody nice, just a shame about the rest of it. The journey was a true bone rattler, to the point that we even bumped into a VW van in front of us and ripped it’s bumper half off. At this point we were not too far from Belem bus terminal and were ushered onto another van for the rest of the journey.
My room for the night is in one of the tower blocks, but not a very high one, I’m one the 8th of 10 floors. It is really a homestay as the landlady rents out the room one I am in and lives, with her extremely elderly and sick husband, in the rest. She is very lovely, and even offered me lunch, which I had already eaten, but I did help myself to a little for dinner.
When I first arrived my first mission was to get my boat ticket for tomorrow, so off to the terminal I went. It is only quick 15 minute walk away but I think I will get an Uber in the morning. Once I had my ticket I found a place to eat. It was all a little confusing at first but finally I got it sorted, you select your protein, then they give it to you with another plate and you help yourself to the extras. I had fish for my protein a little bit of rice and tons of salad – it was good, but not the best. Lots of workmen/women were eating there, so before I even selected my protein I knew it wasn’t going to be bad and definitely plentiful.
After my feed I thought I would find a beer but the weather was having none of it – torrential storms hit us,
I had an umbrella that proved useless and even stood under a shelter for a little while but still got soaked through. By the time I managed to get back to my room my trainers were wetter than a swimming pool and I had to wring the water out of my skirt and T shirt – lol.
As I said my new landlady is lovely and when I explained to her that I was going to the supermarket to get a beer she recommended a bar, so I went there instead – 3 hours later and I am very pissed. The bar is literally 2 minutes around the corner and it was so cosy, comfortable and welcoming – first I had a very large Heine-ken then two caipirinhas and a couple of snacks, all for $13!
Manu and I had a long chat before I headed off to the bar – she is finding Brazil hard, but I did tell her that in each country it has taken me a couple of days to find my feet. Anyway, we are now only days apart and I cannot wait to have some company. I have recommended she stay here on her overnight in Belem, she really can’t go wrong, it is almost perfect.
Before my feed I bought my ticket for Marajo Island tomorrow. I am so looking forward to it. I just hope the accommodation is as nice as the host appears to be, she has been in constant contact with me. She said Joanas a little piece of paradise – I think both Manu and I need paradise for a few days. But for now I need sleep – Its another early start tomorrow.