Cartagena: 26th - 29th November 2025
26th November – Wednesday
This morning was hard work – I woke up pissing shit, literally. The owner of the hostel didn’t have any Imodium, but she did have a nice cup of coffee and two cheese and ham toasties waiting for me. There was no way I could eat so she wrapped them up and I took them with me, I never have problems drinking coffee!
I am not sure why the airline made us do online checking, it was a waste of time, but I did it. I even did my own bag check at the self service kiosk, yes, for a change I checked in my rucksack, it is now 10 kilos! But when I asked about where I go to drop it off, the lady pointed to the checking line, so I still had to line up with everyone else to hand my bag over. So stupid. I think it was at one of the Bangkok airports that, as long as your case is not overweight, there is a quick drop area for it, then self check-in becomes a worthwhile task and there is no queuing.
Luckily the queue was not long and my stomach was feeling a lot more settle, but I still bought some expensive Imodium from the airport pharmacy, which worked well and meant I could also eat half of my breakfast before we boarded the plane. The flight was only an hour and a half, so no big deal and I managed to stay awake the whole time. I love the way it is always sunny above the clouds!
Just like anywhere, the moment you exit the taxi drivers pounce, but I had no money. Rather
than point the way a guy escorted me to the ATM, which was quite a walk away and, ultimately, I was glad he did as I had to use his hotspot to turn my card on, but cash I got and then returned to the taxi guys. Uhm, my escort wanted a tip for his help, OK fair enough, I gave him £2, which he was very happy with. The taxi drivers were not pleased with me as I insisted the fare should be 20,000 COP (Cambodian Pesos) and I had to show them the email from the hostel informing me of how to get a legit taxi and the fare from the airport. Eventually they relented and I got my ride at the correct cost. Uber runs here, no doubt it is even cheaper, so I will use it if I need a taxi again.
So far Cartagena looks amazing. I went for a little walk earlier, and bought some water but I couldn’t find a SIM card. The road I am on is full of artist displaying / selling their work, and there is Trinidad square at the end of the road which looks like it gets lively in the evenings. It also looks like there is a lot of interesting street art scattered around. However, tonight I am sitting in as my stomach, although much better, is still very delicate. Although, now I said that, I am actually feeling very hungry so I may pop out and check out the street food scene.
Tomorrow I have booked a walking tour for 10am – I am really looking forward to it and learning about the history of Colombia and Cartagena.
Later: I was right Trinidad Square comes alive at night time, lots of street food, a couple of bars/restaurants and lots of people milling around. I bought a hot-dog/hamburger chopped. It consisted of meats, fries, cheese and some other unrecognisable stuff all chopped up together (no bread). Unfortunately my eyes were too big for my sick stomach as I really only ordered it because of it’s size. I ate half and have the other half is in the fridge, I am not sure if I will finish it tomorrow, but it’s there in case I decide to. If not I am sure a street dog will be very happy with it.
Already Columbia is proving to be cheaper than Costa Rica, in total I have spent a whopping £14. Even this accommodation is half the price of Costa Rica. Walter said I need to be careful as they will overcharge compared to the towns, he said it is one of the major problems of the Columbian beach areas. I will keep my wits about me
27th November – Thursday
I stink, literally. We woke this morning to no water and 14 hours later there is still no water. Luckily I sterilised some last night so I was able to brush my teeth and have a light monkey wash before leaving for the Guruwalk tour this morning. I also gave some to a couple of girls so they could brush their teeth. Let’s face no day should begin without brushing your teeth.
The walking tour was actually very good. There were far too many people on it but the guide, Legaxy, apologised explaining that there was a cruse ship in and so all the tours were overbooked. The history of Cartagena is wrapped in Spanish colonialism (surprise surprise) and the slave trade and Legaxy was highly knowledgeable and it was extremely interesting. The one thing I do love about these walking tours is that once they are over you know where to go and what is worth re-visiting. They are also good for meeting people. Today I got talking to a guy, Michael, who looked SE Asian but said he is from Norway but now living in the UK. I was thinking about asking him if he wanted to hang out for the afternoon but then I smelt myself and decided to return to see if the water was back. With hindsight I should have found a perfume shop, smothered myself and hung out with him.
Cartagena is an amazingly beautiful town, full of ornate colonial buildings, however it does not have such a prominent Caribbean feel that the locals claim it does. It is not as ‘authentic’ as Puerto Viejo and the people are certainly not as friendly. In fact the street hawkers are a true pain up the backside, from fans to chess sets and everything in-between, I got sick of saying ‘no gracias’. It’s such a shame because they really do ruin what really should be a fantastic stress free experience.
This afternoon I took my smelly body on another walk to find an ATM. I have no mobile data so it turned into a bit of a chore and I found myself walking around in circles. But like London buses, I eventually found one and then there were three! I have tried to buy mobile data, the shop near here has cards, but the guy said he cannot put any credit on it for me. I wanted to laugh, so I can buy a SIM card but I cannot use it. Life!
I wasn’t going to go out this evening due to my body odour which is now even worse after being in the hot sun for the best part of the day. But then I realised I have no water and needed food. So this evening I went for another little walk. I found out where all the bars are, and what a fantastic area they are in. The pedestrian streets are all lit up and have streamers or umbrellas hanging across them and tons of outdoor seating, happy hour is everywhere. Smell or no smell I will be going out tomorrow night for at least two
rounds of cocktails. My stroll this evening ended up in Trinidad Square where I bought a tortilla type pitta bread stuffed with vegetables and salad, which was extremely delicious, and had a beer. The nasty food that I bought yesterday is still in the fridge, I think I will bin it rather than poison a poor stray dog with it.
28th November – Friday
I got short changed again today, but I also got given back too much change, which must be first, so the books balanced. The first mission of the day was to buy a SIM card and some toiletries. I’d like to say something nice about the woman in the betting shop, that was where I got my SIM card, but I can’t, so probably better I say nothing at all. However, she did make me smile when she took her stud earring out and used it to open the SIM card case – very novel. I tried to engage with her, especially over the earring business but she was having none of it and remained pho faced. Anyway, I was not leaving the store until I knew I had mobile data and had to return the phone to her at least 5 times because there wasn’t any. At one point she gave my phone to some guy and he rebooted it, lol, I said nothing. Eventually I took the phone and double checked the SIM she had put in it – make me laugh – she had taken both my SIMs out and then put the Costa Rica one back in instead of the new one. Problem solved. She is the one that short changed me, as I left I told her that she earned the 10000 COP she owed me, I’m pretty sure she understood even though she just looked at me blankly.
From there I went and bought brunch, it was so delicious. A little place just off Trinidad Square, and I am pleased to say the waitress was all smiles and was very patient with my Spanish. I had a chicken and vegetable wrap, so delicious, and the first chicken with proper Caribbean seasoning that I have had since being on the Caribbean coast. I could have eaten two. After that I went and sat outside a bar on the square and bought a beer, for the price I could have bought two cans, but then I would have had to sit on a bench and I wouldn’t have looked so sophisticated – lol.
When I got back to my room I realised that I had forgotten to buy my toiletries – there is always something. I spent the afternoon figuring out my route through Colombia and I have now booked my next place and transport there. I also spent quite a while messaging with Manu. It looks like she will be coming out mid January and can stay for up to a year. I think she got a bit despondent when I said that I wouldn’t be able to meet her in Guyana, that is where she is flying into to. Anyway her mood soon changed when I suggested that she come straight to Brazil and that we travel together for as long as we can stand each others company. Plus we want to do and see the same things so it makes sense. I really am looking forward to having her as a travel companion, travelling on your own is awesome but it is also lonely and hard work.
This evening I went out, it was raining so I took my umbrella. I must have been the only person with one and I felt so stupid, especially when the rain stopped – lol. Being a Friday the streets were a lot more packed than last night, with a lot more tables and chairs lining them. I went and had a very delicious burger and I am pleased to say it wasn’t stupidly large so I left the restaurant feeling comfortably full. It was here that I was given too much change, and extra 10000 COP. However, I thought the waiter had a bit of a nerve because when he brought the bill he said 5% had been added for service but that the bar keeps it and he would be grateful for a little extra to pocket. I wasn’t going to give him anything until I realised he had given me too much change, I checked it three times and then gave him the extra that he gave me – lol.
I really should have stayed out and found a bar somewhere to sit and watch the world go round, but my umbrella deterred me, so I am now back in my room and ready for a good nights sleep.
I still need to buy my toiletries!
29th November – Saturday
Today has been pleasant enough. This morning I bought my toiletries, I had to try 3 shops before I found one that had the prices on. I’m so not falling for that tourist trap, pick your items and then get charged and extortionate amount at the till. One my way back I stopped and had eggs Benedict for brunch. It was very pretty looking but the eggs were over done, I like mine to be runny, these were verging on hard boiled. I did have half a mind to complain, but the other half told me to be quiet and eat, which I did.
This afternoon I went to the beach area and was very disappointing. Most of the coastline is rocks, not natural formed, rather ones that have been deliberate placed there. The beach area itself is in front of a lot of high rise buildings. I noticed a cinema and a shopping mall so I presume this is where a some of the locals and expats live. I didn’t venture in, instead I sat on the beach and people watched for a while. The sand is a grey colour and the beach swamped with chairs and parasols. I had several woman wanting to give me a massage, it kinda reminded me of some of the beaches in SE Asia in that sense. Anyway, Puerto Viejo is so much more pretty and Caribbean in style and feel, Cartagena has been a bit of a let down. I hope the beach I’m going to tomorrow is nicer, I have read that it is far less touristy and that more Colombians use it, so I expect it will be far better and cheaper. After that I am going to head inland and hopefully experience ‘proper’ Columbian culture rather than this ‘made for tourists’ rip off shite.
On my back from the beach I noticed the town is being set up for some type of parade or festival. It would be amazing if it was on tonight, but I expect it will be tomorrow, Sunday. Typically the day I leave. My planning is so off, I really should research more when planning how long to stay in a place. But saying that, I have had enough of Cartagena and am looking forward to leaving tomorrow.
Later: I’ve had such a lovely last evening in Cartagena. I had pizza just around the corner from Trinidad Square, I sat outside and people watched, although it did feel more like they were watching me more than me watching them. The pizza was delicious and as the base was so thin I was able to eat it all without getting that bloated feeling. After that I went to the square and watched the street performers. A young guy kept waving in my direction and then headed straight for me. I tried to avoid eye contact but he was having none of it. He asked if I was from Canada, then got out his phone and pulled up a picture of Vera! I had totally forgotten that she said she had a friend here. He said he recognised me from the hair – lol.
I didn’t stay out late, I was back in my room by about 10am as I have an early start tomorrow and also need
to find an ATM as I have absolutely no money and will need to get a taxi to the bus terminal tomorrow. I did think about going now but decided it’s probably not wise to use an ATM at night and then walk the dark streets with lots of cash on me.