Puerto Viejo: 17th - 25th November 2025
17th November – Monday
That was almost a journey from hell. The Uber ride was fine, I had a lady driver and we chatted in what I will now call Spanglish! We chatted about the places I have been so far and the poverty and drugs problem in San Jose, obviously it was not an in-depth conversation but I was very proud of being able to hold such a conversation.
The nightmare came on the four and a half hour coach trip. I didn’t realise we had dedicated seats so I sat at the back hoping no one would sit next to me. That was until some girl came and said I was sitting in her seat, the guy adjacent looked at my ticket and told me to go to seat 17. I was happy for all of 5 minutes, then an obese woman got on and guess what seat number she had – 18! I wanted to cry when she sat down and her bottom extended into my seat and, once she fell asleep, she proceeded to use my right arm as her arm rest, or should I say elbow rest. After about 15 minutes I gave her a nudge, put the actual arm rest down and politely told her to rest her arm on it. It worked for about an hour after which she decided my arm was the more comfortable option. During that hour I managed to doze off, but her snoring was so loud it kept disturbing me and I don’t think the guy adjacent to her was happy either, he didn’t get any sleep.
We had a ten minute stop in Puerto Limon, which looks like it needs a make over, then continue the last hour as a standard bus dropping off people on route. I am not sure what I was expecting but I felt a little let down looking at the Caribbean coast line. The sea is so calm compared to the Pacific coast and not so dramatic. I had to remind myself that means I can actually get into it and have a swim around, which cheered me up.
It was such a relief to get to Puerto Viejo and leave the obese woman on the coach. The town is very small and very much set toward tourists but it also has a very calm, chilled feel to it and it stinks of weed. Everything I read about it being very different to the rest of Costa Rica was right. There are far more black people here and lots with locks, Spanish is spoken but it doesn’t appear to be the main language, English is widely spoken and so is a form of creole. Puerto Viejo is like being on a Caribbean island, it really does have that feel to it.
I like the hostel, all of the outside areas, the kitchen and common seating area has sand for the floor and the beach is literally a stones throw away. I was actually feeling a little nervous about
this place as so many of the reviews it has are really negative but so far I cannot find anything negative about it. I love the tropical décor, the kitchen is well supplied, the fridge clean and the shower is warm. I am loving the fact that I am sitting here listening to the waves and the town is a 5 minute walk along the beach, or road, whichever route you choose to take. And the three girls that run the place are so warm and friendly. One is called Sofia, I need to find out the names of the others.
After a shower I had a stroll into town and found an ATM, I then spoilt myself to a vegetable green curry and two rum punches – naughty but very nice. As I was walking back it sounded like a lot of bars were setting up for an evening of fun and unlike San Jose, it is certainly more my scene. But this evening I am staying put at the hostel and enjoying the ambience of the common seating area, even if I am on my own. There is a large crab hole in the sand not far from me, just now when I got up something it back into it. I am going to sit very still for a while to see if it will come out again.
18th November – Tuesday
It’s been quite a sober, emotional day. I had a really good nights sleep, only woke once for the loo which hasn’t happened for months. However, it all went sour when I got seriously short changed at the supermarket. I lost £10. The people of Costa Rica are not as honest as the other countries I have visited and this makes me so sad. It is such a beautiful country but full of too many insincere people, it really puts a mar on the place. And, regardless of what I have read, this is the most expensive place so far, £3 for a black coffee – FFS.
I had a good chat with mum and dad on WhatsApp and dad got me researching, it appears this country is on the downward slope, government corruption, drugs, organ and people trafficking and Jaco is rife with paedophiles – no wonder I have felt a sense of discontent since being here. It just hasn’t felt quite right the whole time. Such a shame because it really is such a beautiful country.
In order to lift my mood I spent a couple of hours on the beach, that was when I was messaging with mum and dad. I did feel better after that and came back to hostel and cooked dinner. It was only pasta with tuna, eggs and sweetcorn, but it was so much tastier than last time as this time it had pepper and chilly in it. I have a good serving for tomorrow as well, and no more expensive coffees, I have my own!
The girls here are so lovely, two of them, including Sofia, are volunteers, and the manager Candelita is absolutely wonderful. I feel so welcome and at ease with them and they now feel free to smoke their weed in front of me, they were hiding it before but I could smell it.
I am considering extending my stay here and then going straight to the airport in San Jose and then Columbia. Dad said to move on and he is right, I am not so happy in Costa Rica but I have had a good time. This decision was made this evening. I went for a drink in a bar in town and started to do some research. There are a couple of days of the week when flights to Columbia are cheaper, so I just need to sort out the logistics and then book everything. I have decided to start in Cartagena and then make my way down to Leticia, where I can do a land crossing into Brazil. I had a brief call with Walter while in the bar. He lives in Cali, so I may go there and visit him before I fly to Leticia. You have to fly there as there are no roads there. They have a festival in Cali after Christmas so the chance of me going are high, even if Walter said he will be working most of the time. He works in a hotel!
Anyway, I am am feeling a lot more positive than I was this afternoon, especially now I have my exit plan brewing. I will work it put properly tomorrow when I am sober.
21st November – Friday
Well, not much has happened over the last two days except rain. Yesterday I had hopped to walk along the coastal path to Playa Cocles – but it rained and rained and rained. At one point it had died down a little so I had a quick run to the supermarket, and even that turned into a very wet affair. I think the highlight of the day was when the sloth decided to take a short cut through the communal area. It was drenched and carrying her baby, it was awesome to see her cross the internal roof beams. I didn’t realise sloths move so quickly. So cute!
Today has been a similar story, but not as much rain and no sloth. I just had a 4 hour cat nap! Hope I don’t have problems getting to sleep later. I’m perplexed as to why I slept so long, it’s not like I have done anything more stressful than work on my website and nip to the chicken shop for my dinner.
22nd November – Saturday
Yesterday another traveller arrived, Vera, she asked if I wanted to go out with her for the evening but I really didn’t feel up to it. Instead we have a date for this evening. The girls all went out, I think they felt a little caught out when I bumped into one coming in at 3am. Not long after that the others returned but with some friends whom they hid in the dorm room. Funny how things never really change.
Vera is from Canada and can speak English, French and Spanish – how awesome is that. The only issue I have is that she really and truly does not stop talking, if Titus was here it would be hell! Candelita told me she is a little concerned as Vera is considering buying the hostel, yes it is up for sale, as she feels Vera will want a change of management, but I am sure that will change once they get to know each other. Candelita is so lovely and so professional, if I was buying the place I would keep her on. Uhm, now that is a thought!
Today I decided to go Playa Cocles and asked Vera if she wanted to come with me, which she did. It is a 20 minute walk along the coastal path, however we stopped about half way as Vera was eager to have a swim. I also went in but only up to my knees. I didn’t swim as I felt a bit apprehensive with all of the rocks. Vera wasn’t that keen on the area either so it wasn’t long before we moved on to Playa Cocles, which is beautiful
with golden sands running into the sea, no rocks. It was fairly packed and is probably one of the nicer beaches here, perfect for swimming and sunbathing. We sat near a circus performing practice area and watched a couple of girls doing tight rope walking. It was only a meter or so from the ground so perfect for learning on. It was such a lovely chilled afternoon. Vera kept thanking me for asking her to come along, I think she was feeling a little ‘stuck’ to the hostel and lost the courage to go and explore. I know that feeling well and I am glad that I helped her break it. I now always try to follow Thomo’s advice which is, at all new destinations, drop your rucksack in your room and go for that first walk – it certainly helps you overcome that new destination fear. Anyway, it was wonderful to have some company for a change and I look forward to our night out, but right now I am going to book my accommodation for Columbia – only a few days to go!
23rd November – Sunday
I had such a lovely time out with Vera last night, although due to her back problems she did not want to stay out long. She has worked as a postie for 17 years and is now feeling the pains of it. Anyway, we went to Hot Rocks and listened to a live band, which was cool and then watched a little of the fire eating show before taking a walk down to the beach. We found the outside dance area and there were already quite a few people having a boogie, but we didn’t join in, instead Vera jumped in a tuck-tuck, I followed and we ended back at the hostel.
It’s supposed to be good down at the beach tonight and I would really love to go but I have had an upset stomach all day. It’s not been too bad, but every now and then it churns over and I have had to use the toilet more often that I like to recall. I managed a walk into town but was a little concerned on the way back that I wouldn’t make it back in time.
I think Vera has the hump with me, I am not sure what I have done wrong but she is loud and bubbly with everyone expect me, I feel like she is blanking me. I hope I haven’t done or said anything to upset her.
25th November – Tuesday
Uhm, the girls made me feel really uncomfortable at the hostel yesterday, like they didn’t want me there any more. I am really not sure what I have done to upset everyone but since Vera’s boyfriend has been here, he is from Puerto Viejo, I seem to have been blacklisted. Or else I am just being paranoid. Oh well, such is life and I have moved on now, so there is no point brooding over it. I have tonight in a hostel near to San Jose airport and I fly to Colombia tomorrow. But I don’t think I am being paranoid, yesterday me Vera and her fella went to the beach and he sat a distance from me, scrutinising my every word and movement, and every now and then shaking his head at Vera, like he disapproved of me. He actually reminded me of an X boyfriend of mine, always weighing up the situation and making negativity out of nothing. I don’t think he likes me.
My stomach is still feeling rough and the vodka last night did not help. I was sitting in the communal area minding my own business, but as I said it felt like my presence wasn’t wanted. The girls were getting ready to go out when Vera’s fella gave me a huge and very strong vodka and coke – I think he was trying to knock me out – lol – takes more than a strong vodka to put this old girl to bed. Anyway, at some point quite late Vera came and sat with me and we had a good old chatter, which was really nice, and then we did a quick change of outfits and went to Hot Rocks. It was very disappointing compared to last time we were there, and the barman was horrid. Vera ordered a Bloody Mary and it was vile, she even got the barman to taste it and the face he pulled on doing so fully justified her complaint. But he did not offer to replace it, instead he asked her how to fix it, she said perhaps more spice so he added more Chili which made it even worse. Eventually, begrudgingly, he made her another drink, but it was just as bad, if not worse. By now he and all
the bar staff were in hysterics and only stopped when Vera shouted out, ‘I speak Spanish’. Well I certainly wont be going there again and I hope Vera doesn’t either.
After the bar we had a quick walk around town, but being a Monday everything was closed so we went back to hostel and Vera made a round of decent Bloody Mary’s. I finally hit the sack at 4am with the alarm set for 8. It was a lovely end to my stay in Puerto Viejo, thank you Vera, I have really enjoyed your company.
Today went smoothly, the bus to San Jose was on time and I didn’t have anyone sit next to me so the journey was good but long. When we arrived I avoided the local taxi drivers – pure rip off people. Instead I went across the road and paid for 24 hours of mobile data and ordered an Uber. The traffic was horrendous which made me feel good about booking a hostel near the airport. I think I would have been in a state of panic if I had to sit in that traffic tomorrow morning.
So I am now all ready for my flight to Cartagena and the start of my S America adventures. Central America has been amazing, I think Nicaragua has been my favourite country, closely followed by El Salvador. Gosh – it feels like such a long time ago that I visited these countries.
All I need to do now is eat and get a good nights sleep.
