Semuc Chempey: 16th - 20th July 2025
16th July – Wednesday
That was a long but very beautiful journey to my new location, Pashamaya River Hostel, Semuc Champey. It was a good 8 hours to Lanquin and then a short ride in the back of a pick-up truck to the hostel, which is beautiful. The journey was very pleasant, most of the way there were only 4 of us so we had plenty of room to spread out. I slept to begin with as the cockerels woke me at 4:30! Hopefully there are none here. The drive through the mountains was awesome, so green and varied, very tropical, and a lot of red earth, which reminded me of Cambodia. We passed a lot of small villages with mainly tin and wooden shacks and the odd shop, each had a little church made of concrete – it saddens me that the best built buildings in some of these very poor looking villages is the church – and that is not just here in Guatemala, it is the same all over the world.
One thing that surprised me was the vast amount of corn that was planted, some of it quite random and at one point the field, which was on the slope of the mountain, seemed to go one forever. I later read that corn is the stable diet of the poorer Guatemalans, they even make their tortillas from it, as well as a lot of their other dishes. It was wonderful to see the local women wearing their national dress. It consists of a very full long shirt in dark colours with horizontal stripes, the material looked almost tartan, with a tunic type top. I must find out more about it when I get the chance. The men wore jeans – lol.
A couple of hours into the journey we stopped to get car ferry across a small reiver at a place called Sayaxche, we then made two more stops, one so the driver could eat, and another, for 40-
minutes at Coban. I almost booked a hostel there but after our stop I am so glad I didn’t. We parked up outside a McDonalds! I was sitting outside, contemplating what to do when my three travel companions passed me, so I joined them and we went into the Magdalena shopping plaza opposite. Talk about a shock to the system, it was so glitzy, very western and not at all what I was expecting after my stay at Lake Itza.The first thing we did was get anti-histamine for Anna, she had been bitten during the night and her hand and arm were extremely swollen, she was in a lot of pain; the poor girl. I gave her some tiger balm, I have a little left from SE Asia, it stopped her itching but did not do anything for the swelling. Anyway, I bought food, a very delicious bap with chicken, avocado and green beans and an equally delicious apple strudel.
Back on the bus 3 more passengers joined us and it only took about an hour before we reached Lanquin where I was ushered into the back of the pick-up truck for the last leg of the journey. The style of houses changed between Coban and here, there were far more concrete buildings, and lots more being built. Obviously, it must be a much richer area than the ones we previously drove through.
The hostel is on the river Rio Cahabon, it is a stunning setting, and is very chilled and eco-friendly in style. The two people at the reception didn’t seem that friendly but the guy gave me my first beer for free, so I have no real complaints. I have a log cabin with my own bathroom but the balcony light is not working so I am writing this using my phone torch; they said they will fix it tomorrow. I had a quick look at the menus, which are not thrilling and very expensive, so I will definitely start my diet while I am here! There are also a lot of mosquitos, I’ve already been bitten, I must have squidged the little bugger in my elbow as I have a bite on my upper and lower arm, and boy does it sting. The tiger balm came out for a second time today and I have a roll on deet; I’m armed! My bed also has a mosquito net over it, keep your fingers crossed for me.
I have made two furry friends. In the cabin one down from me are two weed smoking, guitar playing French hippies and their dog, which immediately came sniffing. Unfortunately, after a short while, he was chased off by what I presume is the hostel dog as no-one seems to have claimed her. She is currently curled up outside my door. I just hope I don’t tread on her in the dark.
The music coming from the dinner/communal area is quite funky and it seems quite lively, but I am exhausted so I’m going to curl up in bed, under my mosquito net, read my book and have an early night. I have a lot to exploring to do tomorrow and am looking forward to my first dip in a crocodile free river.
17th July – Thursday
I slept so well last night, but it did take 4 trips to the loo before I actually fell asleep; I got a solid 8 hours in with one loo break; no cockerels! I woke feeling refreshed and I only had to wait 15 minutes before the restaurant opened for coffee. The French people woke, played their guitar, smoked a spliff and then left, it’s been very quiet here ever since.
I developed a rash on lower right arm yesterday and it was still there this morning. I rummaged through my first aid kit and came across a cream called Pure Paw Paw that an Australian woman, Alison, in Bali gave me. I’ve never used it and it is not for rashes but I applied it anyway. It has helped a little but I still have the rash. I’ll apply some more tonight before I go to sleep. I’ve probably brushed my arm against something I have an allergy to without realising, so hopefully it’ll go over the few days.
I had an omelette breakfast, which was delicious, and perused the menus more deeply than yesterday, everything is vegetarian and on reading the descriptions actually sound very delicious. I’m looking forward to dinner.
After working on my website, I decided it was time to get off my butt and go for a swim in the river. The flow of the water was so strong the moment I tried to swim I could feel myself being pulled along too rapidly for my liking, so I paddled around for about 15 minutes before getting out. The pools are supposed to be a lot calmer, we will see tomorrow. The river is called Cahabon and it starts at Lago de Izabal and winds its way through Guatemala for 196 km before ending up in Tactic, which is, by road, only 100 km from here.
This afternoon I went for a walk. The problem with being in the mountains is that there are hills to go up, my poor legs. But it was a lovely walk into the local village and I found the entrance to the Semuc Champey pools so I am prepared for tomorrow. I then went for a walk along the bank of the river, but on the other side to the hostel. It was very scenic and I stopped for a while to take in the ambience and chill. There were a couple of young lads hanging out fishing lines and one way back I saw them lounging in a tree that had fallen into the river. It reminded me of the film Jungle Book – lol.
You will not guess who is here. The very handsome young guy from Columbia. He was at Moni Ami, Lake Itza, when I was there. I will never forget him because he rides a khaki-coloured motor bike and when he arrived at Mon Ami was wearing khaki -coloured clothes to match his bike; it made me smile. I saw his bike before him, parked by the dorm rooms; I made a point of saying hello to him when I saw him in the restaurant. This was just before I tried to have a swim.
I walked into town again this evening. I had one cigarette left, so off I poodle up the hill again. There was a
clothes shop, which was not open or even noticeable before. I asked in there and the lady made her daughter take me to a shop. It was the same shop that I had asked in on my first trip to the village. The owner had told me she didn’t have any, maybe she thought I should give up! Anyway, the little girl got me my goods so I gave her 10 quetzals as a thank you, she was delighted.
I have new neighbours, they are young, Dutch and not very friendly. I think I caught them making naughty videos. It was when I came back from my first outing. She was sitting opposite him with her legs wide open and he had his phone/camera directed right at her crotch. I said hello and made them jump a mile. By the time I finished in the shower they were in their cabin. Young love! They’ve been on their porch area for ages now but every time I walk past they look away. Either they are not friendly or feel embarrassed that I may have seen what they were up to. Either way, I hope they don’t stay for long. Bring back the French couple, that’s what I say!
18th July – Friday
It was raining quite hard when I woke this morning at 5am. It was not my choice to wake this early; the people upstairs were banging around packing to leave. They had gone by six, but I was already up and in need of coffee but the restaurant doesn’t open until seven, so I had to make do with water.
By the time I had finished breakfast the sun was out. I quickly got ready and was going to go to the Semuc Champrey pools but changed my mind as the weather forecast was not favourable. Instead, I tried to go for a walk this side of the river. It was quite a hazardous little walk, one slip and I would have been in the drink. I soon came to a barbwire fence which I managed to navigate round. What a waste of effort; I ended up in a gravel pit with more barbwire, this time actually stopping me from going anywhere. I turned back to the hostel and thought ‘fuck the weather forecast’ and went to the pools.
They are stunning, clear turquoise cool refreshing waters. I jumped in the first pool I came to and quickly got approached by a family. The grandmother, Dora, wanted to know all about me. Luckily her grandchildren, although Guatemalan, live in the USA and spoke perfect English, so they translated for their grandmother. They were a lovely family and it was good to try out some of my Spanish with them. I’m feeling a fair bit more confident now and most of the time I am understood. I am so looking forward to going to the Spanish school and staying with a Guatemalan family so I can improve.
I had a good look around the pools and had a swim in three of them. It didn’t take long for me to get bored so I decided to climb the mountain and go to the viewing spot. The sign said it was a 500-meter climb. So off I went, following anther solo female. She was fast on her feet and she soon disappeared from sight. Not far up it started to rain, I was glad I hadn’t changed out of my swim suit, but I still got my rain mack out and used it mainly to protect my ‘water resistant’ day bag. The rain made the stone stairs as well as the wooden stairs, of which there were plenty, very slippery. Even though a couple went past me at a confident speed I took my time. Recalling my fall in Croatia, I was very careful with my footing and had several breaks. The rain didn’t last long and I soon came across a family selling water, the lady said I was about 5-minutes from the top, it took me 10, better slow than sorry.
The view was amazing, you could see all of the pools and the surrounding mountains. It was definitely worth the climb. Me being me, I decided to take a different route down, even though the sign said it was 700 meters. There were far less wooden stairs this route, and the stones were very slippery from the rain, so I tried my best to step down into the muddy areas, and again I took it very slowly, letting other people pass me. To guys, Guatemalan, were wearing flipflops and were going at almost running speed; I expect they have done this several times before.
At one resting point there were a couple of old guys selling water. I don’t have a clue what they were saying to me, until they told me to stop; I was heading in the wrong direction and the oldest of them told me that was where his house was – lol. As you can imagine, I was quite relieved when I finally saw the pools at eye level. However, the walkway had stopped, they are still building it. I had to follow a route across hundreds of tree roots and little pools of water with a rope handle to support me. At one point I was swinging on the rope desperately trying to keep my balance, I was so relieved to find it again rather than land on my bottom. As I was hopelessly pondering how to navigate the final hurdle, a fallen tree trunk which I hand to walk
along, a welcoming hand appeared from the other side offering to support my crossing, don’t you just love the fact that the world is full of such helpful people?
With mud covered legs of jelly and back ache, I had one final dip in the pools before heading back to the hostel. On my way the girl who I tried to follow up to the view point passed me. We stopped for a chat, she said at one point she looked down and all she could see was a bright purple raincoat, me! I felt quite sorry for her as her tuktuk had broken down and she said she had a long walk ahead of her. I hope a vacant tuktuk quickly passed her and she was able to hail it down.
My body is killing me, every molecule aches from my hike, but it is a good feeling and it has been a fantastic day. The rain is now coming down in bucket loads and it is actually feeling a little chilly. I’m going to do my hair and hope it stops soon enough so I don’t get soaked when I head to the restaurant – I’m starving.
19th July – Saturday
It rained all night, poured down. Really heavily – welcome to the Guatemalan wet season. I got into bed and it started raining in my room, right onto my bed, even though there is a room above me! I called the receptionist guy in and he checked upstairs; he assured me the roof was fine however, the people who left yesterday left the window open and the room was flooding. Luckily only my top sheet and blanket were wet and not the mattress, so he changed my bedding. But could I sleep, no. The rain enlivened all the bloody frogs and what a chorus they made, so bloody loud and for most of the night they kept singing. Not long after finally falling asleep I was woken up by some strange animal noise, oh the joys of sleeping in the jungle.
I have no plans for today, only to stay at the hostel and work on my website. I’ve only got Playa del Carmen and Chetumal left to do for Mexico. With any luck I may be able to catch up on myself especially as this is only my second stop in Guatemala.
20th July – Sunday
I didn’t manage to catch up on myself, the website always takes longer than expected. However, I did finish June, which I feel is quite a mile stone in itself. I will do a little bit more this afternoon.
Early yesterday evening three very loud and very young girls moved into the room above me. I wanted to kill them, they were so loud, screaming and jumping around, as little girls do! But it was still daytime, as such, so I went down to the restaurant and chilled in a hammock. Being an older biddy, I went to bed before them. Uhm, when they finally retired, they yet again felt the need to scream and jump around the room, so I shouted up to them ‘hey, girls!’. That did the trick, I could hear them going ‘shh, there is someone down there’. They were as quiet as mice after that – bless them.
I went to the Kanba caves, this morning and wow, what an experience, and I got a lot more than I bargained for. The guide first took us to a swing jump into the Cahabón River. This I did not do, not only for the fear of getting water up my nose and never coming up again, the first girl did a very painful looking belly flop which totally put me and another girl off. However, I did do the tube ride down the river, and past my hostel, which was actually quite fun and relaxing. When we got out of the river there was a pick-up and I got all excited thinking we were going to be driven back, but I was mistaken. We had to walk, but it was not far, about 20 minutes. After that, we went to the waterfall, which is about 20 minutes from my hostel, the belly flop girl decided to be brave and did the cliff jump, but again, I chickened out. Next time I am in a ‘safe’ pool I will practice jumping in and not getting water up my nose because, to be honest, I would like to have a go at cliff jumping before I’m too old. Finally, we climbed up a few stairs to the mouth of the cave. The guide gave us a candle each and in we went, into the waist deep cold waters and the pure darkness of the caves, it was all very nerve recking but I held my breath and onward I went. Not far in we stopped and the guide painted our faces with black stuff from the cave walls. We then followed a rope and moved further into the cave and even more darkness. It was quite scary as the floor was very rocky, there were a lot of holes to fall down into and by now we were literally up to our shoulders in water; we were warned to take care of our heads, backs, feet and hands. The worst part for me was the first ladder, it went up vertically for about a dozen steps and then the steps were at a 45degree following the slope of the stones, it wasn’t the fact that it was a ladder, it was the fact that it was so close to the rocks that there was hardly any space to put your feet on the rungs. To top that off we had to pull ourselves up the final incline, to safety, using a rope. The rocks were wet and slippery and I was in panic mode, I’m really not that strong anymore and, not only was I scared about losing my footing, I was also really paranoid that I wasn’t going to be able to pull myself up on the rope. You should have heard the swear words coming out of my mouth, I am not sure if the French girls and Israeli guy with us fully understood me, but I expect they got the gist of it. At one point the guide was telling me to mover over to the other side, I just looked at him, told him I really couldn’t so he moved out of the way and pulled me to safety. I was shaking by this point and not looking forward to the return journey and having to lower myself, via the rope, onto the ladder. However, the guide reassured me we would be using a different method to descend the rocks.
At the end point of our adventure there was a waterfall that, as an optional event, you could pull yourself up using a rope, I did not do this. However, I had no choice when it came to going under the waterfall and jumping into the water below, as this was the start of our return journey. Luckily it wasn’t a high jump, the water was not deep and I was able to hold my nose, thinking about it now, it was actually quite fun, especially having the waterfall cascade down onto me. So, instead of going back down rope and that horrendous first ladder we had to shoot down a very tiny hole, the guide told us to veer left. OMG, I had to propel myself down a water hole into the unknown, but it was that or the ladder, so I propelled myself and it really wasn’t as bad as expected. The tunnel / hole was not very long and the water at the end not deep, thank god.
When we emerged back into day light, I felt exhilarated, regardless of my nerves and aching body the experience had been awesome, and the caves, what we had managed to see of them, absolutely stunningly beautiful. But most of all I had pushed myself to do something very much out of my comfort zone. I just looked at the guide, with a beaming grin, and told him that I wanted do it all over again.
The rest of the group were going to the pools so I walked back to the hostel feeling so proud of myself. After my shower I walked back into the village and up to the entrance to the pools and was quite disappointed that the ladies at the kiosk wouldn’t change my 100q note. I knew the little old lady at the shop that I was going to buy from my goods from probably wouldn’t have change, so in the end, I had to buy a beer from another shop in order to get change. It was half the price to the beers at the hostel! When I say shop, I don’t mean shops like we have in the UK, these shops are wooden huts and they serve you through a window and most of them only sell crisps and biscuits and an array of other unhealthy munchies.
It was very amusing watching the little old lady at the shop I was buying from trying to calculate the cost of my goods. It took her several attempts before she finally told me the cost, which I didn’t understand. I gave her what I thought would be more than enough to cover my purchase
and she disappeared for a while. When she returned, she had loads of money in her hand and proceeded to put the right amount of money next to each of my items, I found this so funny. She then gave me some change, I am sure she was undercharging me, but I am happy as I now have a few munchies for the 10-hour bus ride to ride Lake Atitlan tomorrow. I bought my bus ticket from the hostel even though I could have gotten it for about £5 less on the internet but the hostel throws in a ‘free’ breakfast, which isn’t free as breakfast here cost £5. However, I know eating before I leave is the right thing to do as it could be a long time before the driver stops for a break.
So, this is my last night in the jungle and, although it has been an awesome experience, after lasts night’s bug affair I am actually quite happy to be leaving. At the restaurant I got bitten on both arms by ants, I had a spider on my mosquito net, it was there for over 6 hours, luckily it was gone by the time i was for bed, I fed a piece of aubergine to a one-legged grass hopper, I had a beetle fly into my lap, but worse of all I didn’t see the earwig on my beer bottle, I just avoiding swallowing it but it bit my lip!








































































