San Salvador: 10th - 16th September 2025
10th September – Wednesday
I was very disappointed this morning, there was no free coffee
so I started my swim with a slight headache and no energy. I had to buy a coffee which they delivered to the poolside and I drank between laps. After my swim I had my granola breakfast, another coffee, packed and left. I was going to get an Uber to Sonsonate; the price started at $14 but the hotel is far from town and no drivers took up my request, the fare then went up to $22! There was no way I was going to pay that so ended up getting an Uber into town for $11 (tip included) and then the chicken bus for $0.75. It wasn’t easy with my rucksack but there was space at the back so at least I didn’t have to stand for the hours ride. I think I missed a trick by not leaving the hotel; from what I could see from the Uber Acajutla looks so beautiful, lots of flowers in bloom, clean streets and some interesting looking shops – next time! Once in Sonsonate I roamed the bus station three times but couldn’t see the sign for the 205 to San Salvador. In the end I asked a guy who was doing the chits for the drivers. He spoke so fast and pointed me in the right direction but I was quite confused and found myself in a car park. I perched on my rucksack and perused G Maps, one minute away – lol – it turned out to be directly across the road from me
The 205 wasn’t a chicken bus, it was an airconditioned coach, lush, I had a lovely nap and woke up just as we got into San Salvador. I watched G Maps carefully and got off not far from my hotel. There were a couple of taxi drivers touting rides but I explained, in Spanish, that I had no cash and Uber uses credit card – they understood me – I wish more people did – lol.
My hotel is lush, the room is large but the bed a standard double, I prefer queen size and there is a very well-equipped shared kitchen with filtered water. The only two downers are that the pool is very small and the Italian guy here told me there is a very loud discotheque opposite that is on every night until 2pm – let’s
see what the music is like The owner let me put my stuff in my room and then I headed out, downhill, for an ATM and supermarket. The supermarket I went to had been demolished and the ATM in the petrol station kept refusing my transaction – turns out there wasn’t enough money in that account. I transferred some money only to be told I had tried too many times and to come back later – FFS. Luckily there was a different ATM across the road, I got money and then hiked back up the hill (it’s not actually that steep but when you are tired…) to another supermarket. So, I am now happily stuffed, have enough chicken and salad left for two more days, I have food for three days breakfast and wine on tap – no complaints
I think San Salvador must be quite high up – there is an electrical storm in the mountains ahead (probably a volcano) but it feels like we are almost on the same level as the storm. I must do some research. It’s very beautiful and I’m feeling quite at peace watching it. I’m still so so sad but emotionally in a better place and ready to continue my adventure in memory and spirit for all whom I have loved and lost – forever loved and never forgotten.
11th September – Thursday
FFS – this is such a beautiful hotel but there is a discotheque opposite and the music was banging out so loud last night that not even my earplugs could subdue it. I gave up at midnight, turned the light on and played games on my phone while messaging Glenn. Thinking about it now, I should have gotten dressed and gone and had a dance, but I was fuming too much and really not in the mood. The music stopped at 2:30am and I finally slept until 8am, which is so late for me.
I had a very slow lazy morning/early afternoon, but did book myself onto a walking tour, which started at 4:30pm. I got 101B chicken bus to the meeting point, Parque Cuscastlan, but got off early – it was so packed and I was standing right in front of the open door, it was quite a dangerous experience. I enjoyed the little walk I had to the park and got there a good half hour early. It is such a pretty park, with bed type benches to lay on, lots of artwork on display and generally just a relaxed calm, green environment.
David, our guide, there was also an American couple with me, was very entertaining. Before the American couple turned up David told me how he was a telesales operator for 7 years, and bored of his job spent the weekends exploring and learning about his country so that he had the knowledge to become a tour guide. He worked for several companies for a few years but is now independent, which is why I chose him in the first place. It felt like we stayed in the park for far too long but he did use this time to tell us all about the history of El Salvador and how the gangs came to take over the country. Basically, back in the 70’s, America deported all of the Salvadorian criminals back home and rather than put them in prison the country granted them freedom and they took over and made this, at one point, the most dangerous country in the world. He also explained how when the Spanish came they accused the natives of being criminals and basically assassinated most them, which is why the Mayan culture is not prevalent in this country, unlike Guatemala. Finally, he explained about all of the corrupt presidents they have had and why they love their current one, Nayib Bukele, so much. And to be honest, from everyone that has spoken to me about him and their experiences prior to his election, I really don’t blame them – he has changed this country so much and the people are so proud and feel so safe and those that became refugees, are now returning.
From the park we walked through the hospital district, which is being rebuilt, and then the university district. Here he explained how now all children are being provided with education and how the government has pledged to build/improve two new schools a day. They are using a lot of inmates to do this and for 1 day of ‘community service’ they get 2 days off their sentence and a job when they are released. This does not apply to gang members who have life sentences. Finally, we went to the new ‘historic centre’. By now it was dark so it was all quite sparkly, and everything is brand new or has been recently refurbished. They are even built a new indoor market area and are slowly moving the outdoor market into it, which, although I can see the benefits, is also a shame as San Salvador seems to be losing it traditions and becoming very westernised – but who can blame them.
The tour ended outside a ‘westernised’ pupusa house, which David said sold the best pupusa in town – no doubt they are good, I did not try them, but it will be the little old ladies with their crusty old food carts that sell the best pupusa in town. I got an Uber back and had chicken for dinner. I loved my driver, I told hm I only spoke a little bit of Spanish and, rather than speak English to me, he spoke Spanish all the way home, we had quite a good conversation. I told hm I understand more than I can speak, and he said I can speak a fair amount but need to keep practicing – he is so right. I told this to the Italian guy here (Marco) and he informed me of an online conversation exchange platform, which is free. After eating I registered with them and hopefully will soon find a Latino Spanish speaking person who wants to improve their English that I can converse in Spanish and English with.
Uhm, it’s now 10.15pm and the music is pumping out. I have two Nitol at the ready and hope they will help me sleep through the baseline. I have decided I am going to extend my stay in San Salvador for two more nights as it is Independence Day on Monday and David said the streets will be filled with parades, music and plenty of good food stalls. However, I am not staying here – the hotel that I didn’t book still has places available and is nearer to the park where all the activities start from. I have booked that, but can cancel before Sunday for free so I will double check my choice in the morning.
To top off a good day, my kindle has started working again. Before I went out I thought to try to fix it again, but had no luck, so I left it plugged in and when I got back it had moved off the page it has been stuck on all these weeks – I am so shocked as I tried this before but it didn’t work, not sure why it has this time, perhaps leaving it all these weeks has let whatever the problem was settle down and resolve itself?
12th September – Friday
Uhm, I’m definitely having a small love affair with El Salvador – the more I see of it the deeper the affair becomes. Today I managed to get out before midday, I went down the hill and bought water and then got an Uber to Parque Nacional El Boqueron. I could have got 101B and 103B chicken buses, but chickened out – lol. Boy, was it a long drive, much further than expected and the lady Uber driver was silent the whole journey – I still gave her a tip. I thought I was going to hike up San Salvador Volcano but by the time we reached the park entrance we had driven most of the way up. The rest of the hike was easy, 5 minutes and mainly stairs. I was hoping to see a fair bit of wildlife, I heard several birds, saw a few butterflies and photographed several flowers – that was it, but it was extremely beautiful and a well looked after park. The volcano crater, in my opinion, was not that impressive, probably due to the fact that it has been dormant since 1917 and is covered in fauna flora, however it was quite big and for $2 worth the visit. A few years ago you could actually hike down to the mouth of the volcano but alas this is no longer allowed and you are limited to the dedicated viewpoints, of which there are many. One has a glass floor and these guys kept jumping on it and tried to crack t, so I moved on rather hastily – lol.
At the top I stopped for a very expensive and not very nice coffee and a pack of three coconut cookies, which were delicious, and then made my way down and past the park exit and before I knew it I was on the road leading into the local village. Just as I arrived a 103B bus pulled in – I tried to get on it but the guy said no however, another guy in the back of a pick-up told me to hop in as it was going to Santa Tecla, the town before San Salvador, so I did. I have seen several of these pick-ups whilst here and they are used as colectivo buses, you hail them down and jump in the back, everyone stands and hangs on for dear life, but me and this guy sat until it started to rain and I could feel the moisture creeping into my knickers. Anyway, this guy was not only very handsome but also more than helpful. I asked him where in Santa Tecla I get the
101B bus and he said he’d take me to the bus stop – which he did and in the process we both got soaking wet. He was so lovely, as we crossed the roads he kept putting his hand out to grab mine too see me safely across the road – I didn’t take it but do wish I had taken his name and phone number – lol. I hopped off the 101B at the bottom of my hill, popped in the petrol station, bought alcohol for the evening and a rather delicious hotdog covered in a ton and half of sauce, which I ate there.
I managed to get back to my room without getting any wetter, but it is now raining again and rather heavily. My trainers are once again soaked through and will probably be no good for tomorrow. I hope it stops raining soon and the sun comes out again as I was planning on having a wonder around Zona Rosa this evening. If not, it will be a Saturday night in front of Spanish TV
14th September – Sunday
RIEP Jay
Jay is dead – I cannot believe it, I am in a total state of shock. Yesterday I had a swim in the rather small pool, went for a walk and chilled, then in the evening I got the devastating news from Tom. Tom is not one for messaging and social media, so you know it’s more than important if he contacts you, and he said he had been tryng to get hold of me for a couple of days, first through my redundant Cambodia number, and then my UK number. I haven’t stopped crying since. He thinks Jay had a stroke, but both Glenn and I think it is something else. We are not sure what, but when Jay went to Thailand last year he ended up in hospital and since then he has been continually ill, we think they told him something that he did not share – I think he knew his days were numbered, but he was so looking forward to his pension in December and moving to PP. OMG. It’s been 24 hours and I still cannot absorb it. Jay, you were my Siem Reap, my big brother, my best friend, my inspiration, you kept me going through the thick and thin, you understood me and knew when to tell me to fuck off – I cannot believe you have gone. I am waiting for the April fools message, I am waiting to wake up from this nightmare – every pinch hurts, your death is real, my love for you realer than real – my heart is so broken. I hope one day we will meet again, I hope you will be there with my dad to greet me on my way to wherever – I don’t ask that of many but I ask that of you – RIEP Jay – forever loved, never forgotten – you have ripped a hole in my heart that will never be repaired. Thank you for genuinely caring for me.
I moved today, thank god, the music didn’t stop until 4am this morning and it was banding so loud I couldn’t hear myself cry. My new place is absolutely lovely, it even has a sofa, I went for a walk to buy beer but there are no tiendas near buy, the lady owner gave me 5 beers for $5 – such a loving being, she even gave me little cuddle – god bless her. Before I left I gave Marco my number, we are going to meet in the morning and celebrate Independence Day together. I need to have my head to together by then – I cannot let my grief ruin anther persons day. I sent him a map stating that we should meet at the circle – he told me it should be an S – he is learning Hebrew! He is half Italian and Palestinian and such a lovely man – married of course – but I do look forwards to his company tomorrow.
I had my first conversation exchange today with Walter – for obvious reasons I cancelled him yesterday. He is from Columbia – His English is far better than my Spanish – I hope he will help me improve. I have 5 other guys on Conversation Exchange that want to engage with me, so if Walter turns out to be ‘no good’ there are others – I will make contact with them tomorrow, when I am in a better frame of mind. For now, I simply look forward to a good night’s sleep without any disco base thrown in. Please let me wake in a more positive frame of mind tomorrow – love you Jay, will miss you with every breath I take.
15th September – Monday
Happy Independence Day El Salvador
I am so numb and still in a state of disbelief – every time I think of Jay I cry – how can it be? You were supposed to live forever Jay – my heart is broken, my emotions distraught – someone please tell me it is not true. And today Titus told me that his friend Elliot passed away in June, liver sorosis. I always liked Eliot – RIP.
Meeting up with Marco was a bit of a fiasco this morning. He had forgotten that last night we had changed the meeting place, and then, after I sent him a map of where I was and the new meeting place, he decided to come to me. What should have been a half hour walk turned into an hour! Not only did I send him a map I also sent him my address clearly stating the two roads I am on the corner of. Ignoring my map, he put one of the roads into his European phone map, it only turns out that the road he used is split in two by a huge main road and guess where he went – yep, to the wrong end in the wrong area – lol. By the time he finally got here he was extremely frustrated and not a very happy man and the coffee I had brewing was just about warm. I think the fact that we were just around the corner from the parade cheered him up, as by the time we got to the park his mood had lightened.
The parade was bloody long – 3 hours long to be precise. But it was entertaining and we meet 3 lovely ladies and one of their sons while we were watching it go by. Marco speaks excellent Spanish so he did all of the talking, I also think two of the women took a bit of a shine to him. One of them could actually speak good English and slowly as her confidence grew she began informing about the different sections of the parade. She found it hysterical when, after she told me that the guys passing were rescue working and will save me, I respond ‘help, I need saving!’ There was also a flyover of helicopters and fighter planes which was quite fantastic.
Yas called me during the parade, she was quite concerned after our call last night when I just couldn’t stop crying. I really don’t want her worrying about me but I do absolutely love it when she calls me, it fills my heart with love.
After the parade Marco asked the ladies if they wanted to join us, they accepted and we did the long walk into the historic centre. I was actually feeling starved by then as I hadn’t had any breakfast, and the woman who could speak English wouldn’t stop talking to me. I really had to bite my tongue and stay polite but all I wanted was for her to leave me alone. Being hot and hungry is not easy – lol. We ended up in a really bloody long queue for chicken, it was so long that it was out in the street. People kept trying to push in and I was getting more and more frustrated. Eventually I suggested we go somewhere with a shorter queue – we ended up in Burger king!
I felt so sorry for Marco. After the mornings fiasco I had offered to buy him lunch, so I ordered us two burgers, then one of the women started putting her order onto mine! I explained that I couldn’t afford it and she said that Marco had invited them and so should buy their food – wow. As you can imagine I was a bit shocked by this and went and got him and explained – the poor guy ended up buying everyone’s food, even mine – and the women ordered expensive burgers – I recon the bill came to well over $80. I think that will be the last time he invites strangers to join him. However, we did have a lovely time with them at the parade and it was nice to meet new people and I know he has swapped numbers with them and wants to meet up with them again during the week.
I’m back in my room now and feeling very down, I had another good cry over Jay, in fact every time I think about him I well up in tears. I’m supposed to be leaving here tomorrow but have nowhere booked and am so unmotivated to look. I just hope I can extend for one night and have a bit more motivation in me tomorrow. If I can’t then god knows what I will do, but I’ll cross that bridge if/when I come to it. Perhaps a couple of days by the sea will help me, it worked with Nessa’s passing, although hers was expected and, although obviously devasting and heartbreaking, not in the same way as Jay – FFS Jay, how can I ever go back to Cambodia without you being there? Why did you have to go and die? WHY?
16th September – Tuesday
I booked another night and spent all morning perusing hotels on the beach and still haven’t booked anywhere. There is one place that tickles my fancy but it appears to be in quite a remote location and right now I think I would benefit from having people around me, Justine’s suggestion, and she is right as it helped after Nessa passed away. Yes, my beautiful friend did it again and called just when I needed her. I had a little cry but not as big as the last few days. And last night Dina, the chatty lady with the son from yesterday, got my number from Marco and we texted – so much support And Justine has so many words of wisdom, especially after going through the loss of Jo, Nathan and her property. I felt guilty crying to her, her pains have been so much worse and deeper than mine, but she understood.
I finally dragged myself out of bed and went on a beer hunt – there really isn’t that much near here so I walked for a little longer than planned. I passed several ‘local’ food/restaurant places and on the way back bought chicken, a meat ball, rice, beans and spicey veg all for $4.25. I actually feel so much better with good food and beer in me. It’s now raining so I have an excuse not to go out again.
I was just looking at my finances – El Salvador is proving to be so cheap. I think using the chicken buses helps but also, thinking about it, Mexico was expensive because of Justine’s visit and Guatemala expensive because of my three weeks of school/homestay. I’ve also spent a lot less on food and drink here by using the supermarkets, markets and ‘local’ food/restaurant places more. I need to keep this up for the reast of my travels to ensure I don’t run out of money. Manu is planning on possibly meeting me in Brazil in January/February – I hope that doesn’t become another expensive one. I am also very wary of Costa Rica and Panama, as I know they are expensive countries, but I am sure, if I am careful and find ‘local’ places to eat I can keep my cost down. Now in saying all of that I am thinking of treating myself to an ‘expensive’ hotel at the beach. When I say expensive, I am thinking $200 for 5 nights, no more. So, I’m now going to spend this rainy afternoon perusing hotels (again) and must book something otherwise tomorrow I will be sleeping on a beach somewhere between El Tunco and La Libertad – lol.
